| Glossary Of Terms |
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| Acidizing: |
| Refers to the treatment of diamonds with acids (usually hot) to clean them after mining or after cutting, particularly to remove oxides or polishing residues from surface fissures. |
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| A Jour: |
| Is a type of diamond mount that exposes the pavilion to the light and is used in most modern mounts, unlike earlier closed settings. |
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| AGS: |
| The American Gem Society founded and supported by approximately 1,000 high-end jewelers. They are recognized as one of the top gemstone grading organizations. |
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| AGSL: |
| The American Gem Society Laboratories, an industry leader in diamond grading. |
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| AGTA: |
| The American Gem Trade Association, an industry leader in diamond grading. |
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| Allochromatic: |
| Refers to the coloring by minor impurities of stones, which, if pure would be colorless. |
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| Alloyed: |
| Refers to the "mixing" of different metals with Gold to increase hardness and/or change the color. Two or more metals are melted together, resulting in a compound metal, or alloy. |
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| Anneal: |
| A heating enhancement process used with color gemstones. The term originated with the Independent Gemological Laboratories (IGL), an industry leader in diamond grading specializing in larger stones, also, a heating process to soften precious metals. |
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| Appraisal: |
| A formal evaluation process through which the value of a diamond (or any item) is determined and documented. It takes into account every aspect of a diamond's characteristics and dimensions, and serves as the basis for determining the proper insurance coverage rate for the item. |
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| Assay: |
| A test of the purity of an alloy. A tiny piece of metal is scraped from the piece and the percentage of gold or silver is determined. |
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| Asscher: |
| A unique, square-shaped cut diamond with rectangular facets |
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| Baguette: |
| Refers to a diamond cut in the shape of a narrow bar, sometimes tapered at one end. It was named after the long French bread loaf. |
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| Baton: |
| Is another name for a baguette. |
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| Bail: |
| A finding, connected to pendants or stones worn as pendants to accommodate a chain, cord or thong. |
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| Band: |
| A ring that is made from a thin, flat, ribbon-like strip of material (usually metal). |
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| Bar Channel Setting: |
| Similar to the channel setting, it is a circular band of diamonds that holds each stone in by a long thin bar, shared between two stones. |
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| Barion Cut: |
| A diamond cut with a traditional step cut crown and a modified brilliant cut pavilion. A square barion cut diamond has 61 facets, excluding the culet. |
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| Base Metal: |
Metals which are commonly used to alloy gold jewelry, e.g. copper, silver, zinc, nickel, platinum and palladium.
Basket Setting: A fancy setting of various shapes with numerous side piercings that provide a basketwork or lacy appearance. |
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| Bedrock: |
| Is the solid rock found under deposits of gravels, silt, sand, soil, etcetera. |
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| Bezel Facets: |
| Occur when the cross-cutter makes the four top corner facets into eight. |
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| Bicycle Tire: |
| Refers to a thick girdle. |
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| Blocking: |
| Putting on the 16 main facets by the cross-cutter. |
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| Blue Ground: |
| Is the miner's name for the unoxidised kimberlite in a pipe or other kimberlitic deposit. |
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| Bead Setting: |
| A method of diamond setting in which the stones are set flush in a strip of metal. The stones are held by the beads, which are raised by the diamond setter from the surrounding metal. |
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| Bead Size: |
| Bead sizes can range from 3.4 mm (or 1/8") to 6 mm (or 1/4") in diameter. |
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| Bearding or Girdle Fringes: |
| The outermost portion of the diamond, called the girdle, can develop small cracks that resemble whiskers during the polishing process. These whiskers, or bearding, can sometimes be removed, if not too dramatic, with slight re-polishing, and if the weight allows. |
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| Bevel Cut/Biseau Cut: |
| A stone cut with a large table and the edges beveled by a single facet; the bottom may be cut normally, or it may be the same as the top, in which case it is known as double bevel cut. |
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| Bezel Facets: |
| Also called kite facets, because of their shape, bezel facets are cut along the crown or top of the diamond or gemstone. |
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| Bezel Setting: |
| A setting in which a metal rim holds the stone and completely surrounds the gem. Bezels can have straight edges, scalloped edges or can be molded into any shape to accommodate the stone. |
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| Black Diamond: |
| A term used for truly black diamonds and for carbonados. |
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| Black-Centered Stone: |
| A lumpy diamond with an overly deep pavilion. |
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| Blemish: |
| Any type of flaw on the surface of a diamond or other gemstone. |
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| Blue Gold: |
| An alloy of light blue color usually composed of iron and gold. Not commonly used in making jewelry because the iron causes a very brittle alloy. |
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| Brilliance: |
| Is the intensity of the white light when a diamond is looked at in the face-up position. |
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| Brilliant Cut: |
| The term for a cut with 58 facets. These cuts are scientifically found to reflect the most light from within the stone and often are considered to have the most brilliance of all cuts. |
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| Bruise: |
| A type of minor flaw on the surface of a diamond or other gemstone characterized by a root-like appearance (like a cracked windshield) inside the stone. |
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| Blue-White: |
| Is a confusing term often wrongly applied. A blue-white stone should have a faint tinge of blue, even though the description is usually intended to mean colourless. Sometimes it is even applied to stones with a faint tinge of yellow. |
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| Boart: |
| Is a very low-grade diamond suitable only for industrial use. It is also spelt bort, boort, and bortz. |
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| Brillianteerer: |
| Is the skilled person responsible for the final stages of putting on and polishing the 40 facets after the cross-cutter's work. It is also spelled brilliandeer. |
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| Bruting: |
| Is another name for cutting to fashion the girdle outline of a brilliant cut. |
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| Calibré Cut: |
| Refers to stones that have been cut to standard dimensions for easy setting into standard mounts. |
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| Carat: |
| Is the standardized unit of weight for gemstones. One carat is equal to 0.20 of a gram. |
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| Clean: |
| Is used to describe a diamond that has no readily visible inclusions, grade SI and above. |
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| Cleavage: |
| Refers to the tendency of a diamond to split along the grain parallel to one of its octahedral faces. It is also a term applied to rough diamonds that have at some time been cleaved from a larger stone. |
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| Clarity: |
| One of the "4 C's," clarity refers to the presence (or absence, ideally) of identifying characteristics, called inclusions, in the stone. Diamonds with no or few inclusions receive a higher rating for clarity and are more valuable than those with noticeable inclusions. You can learn more about clarity in our Learning Center. |
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| Certification: |
| This is a diamond grading report. There are many recognized gemological labs that can grade your diamond for a fee. |
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| Certified Gemologist: |
| A title granted by the American Gem Society to jeweler members who have completed several advanced gemology courses and examinations. |
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| Channel Setting: |
| Small grooves in a jewelry setting that help hold the stone in place. Used most frequently for wedding and anniversary bands, a channel setting will set the stones right next to each other with no metal separating them. |
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| Chip: |
| A flaw in a gemstone usually created by damaging contact with another surface or hard material. |
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| Cloud: |
| A group of minute crystals, called pinpoints, which may form inside some diamonds. Very minor clouds are not visible to the naked eye and do not affect the brilliance of the stone or compromise its integrity. |
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| Cluster Setting: |
| This setting surrounds a larger center stone with several smaller stones. It is designed to create a beautiful larger ring from many smaller stones. |
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| Color: |
| One of the "4 C's," color refers to the presence (or absence, ideally) of a particular color in a diamond. The scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z. An ideal diamond will have as little color as possible. The closer to white or "colorless" the stone appears, the more valuable it is. You can learn more about color in our Learning Center. |
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| Cleaver: |
| Is the skilled person who cleaves a diamond into two parts. |
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| Closed Culet: |
| Is the sharp point at the bottom of the pavilion of a brilliant cut, or knife edge on an emerald-cut stone. |
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| Cross-Cutter: |
| Is the skilled person who grinds and polishes the first 16 facets on a diamond. |
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| Crown: |
| The upper facets of the diamond, above the girdle, leading to the table, or the top of a diamond. |
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| Culasse: |
| The pavilion. |
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| Cushion Cut: |
| A mixed-cut diamond shaped like a square pillow. |
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| Cut: |
| One of the "4 C's," cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a polished diamond. Based on scientific formulas, a well cut diamond will internally reflect light from one mirror-like facet to another, and disperse and reflect it through the top of the stone. This results in a display of brilliance and fire. Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow lose or leak light through the side or bottom, resulting in less brilliance and ultimately value. |
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| Culet: |
| Refers to very small facet on the bottom of the pavilion, parallel to the table. It is also spelled collet and culette. |
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| Cutter or Bruter: |
| Makes the rough diamond round before it is faceted. |
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| De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited: |
| De Beers conducts the mining of about 45% of the world's gem and industrial diamonds, and the marketing of the vast majority of all newly mined rough gem and industrial diamonds through associated companies. |
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| Depth: |
| The height of a diamond, as measured from the culet to the table. |
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| Diamond Parcel Paper: |
| Is the specially folded paper in which a diamond is or diamonds are held for carrying, or transporting. |
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| Dispersion: |
| Describes the way a diamond breaks up a ray of white light into color. |
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| Dimensions: |
| A diamond's width and height as they appear in the setting. |
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| Dop: |
| Refers to the holder used for a diamond that is being polished. A diamond is held in a solder dop by solder and in a mechanical dop by metal jaws. |
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| Extraction: |
| Describes the process of removing diamonds from concentrate. |
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| Extra Facet: |
| Is an additional small facet usually applied to remove a small blemish most commonly on or near the girdle. |
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| Emerald Shape: |
| A step cut gemstone that can be rectangular, square or even triangular, where the corners have been cut off for protection and easier prong setting. |
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| Faceted Girdle: |
| Refers to a girdle on which small facets have been polished to improve the brilliance of the diamond. |
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| F/IF Diamonds (Flawless/Internally Flawless): |
| Diamonds in this category have no internal inclusions. They are extremely rare and highly valued. These stones are perfect. |
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| Face Up: |
| Is the position of a diamond with the table of the stone facing the viewer. |
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| Facets: |
| These are tiny surfaces polished onto a rough diamond that give a finished diamond its shape. The way light interacts with these facets affects a diamond's brilliance and sparkle. |
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| Fancies: |
| Are attractively colored diamonds. |
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| Fancy: |
| Is a diamond of an attractive color other than white that is suitable for gem use. |
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| Fancy Yellow: |
| Diamonds in the D to Z colorless category that are so yellow that they transcend the scale and become a classification all to themselves. When bright yellow, they can be as valuable as D colorless diamonds. |
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| Fault: |
| Anything which damages the appearance of a diamond, and thus lessens the value - flaws, scratches, chips, etc. |
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| Feather: |
| A tiny fracture inside a diamond that may be feather-like in appearance. It is a separation or break due to either cleavage or fracture, often white and feathery in appearance. Most feathers are insignificant and do not visibly affect the brilliance or compromise diamond integrity, also called a fracture. |
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| Fezels: |
| Wispy, irregular white inclusions inside a diamond that was cut from a macle, or rough diamond. |
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| Findings: |
| Standardized parts of jewelry used in manufacturing and repair work, such as ear nuts, shanks, catches, lobster claws, settings, etc. |
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| Fingerprints: |
| A type of inclusion, or internal flaw, particularly found in corundum. |
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| Finish: |
| Finish is used to describe the exterior of the diamond. If a diamond is well polished, it has a very good finish. |
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| Fire: |
| Often a term used instead of "dispersion," it is the variety and intensity of rainbow colors seen when light is reflected from a diamond. |
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| Fish Eye: |
| A noticeable white circle that looks like a fish eye, present in some poorly cut diamonds. |
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| Fishtail: |
| The name for certain settings that have the shape of a fishtail in the side of the setting. |
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| Fissure: |
| An elongated cavity, usually the result of a cleavage opening to the surface of a diamond or gemstone. |
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| Fit: |
| Comfort fit is a type of jewelry band featuring a rounded inside edge, as opposed to a sharper edge, to eliminate pinching and improve its comfort. You can learn more about other styles of engagement rings and wedding bands in our Learning Center. |
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| Flat Ends: |
| Thin diamond cleavages. |
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| Flaw: |
| An imperfection in a diamond, visible through a ten-power loupe. |
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| Flawless: |
| The top clarity grade in diamonds; without flaws; perfect. |
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| Fluorescence: |
| When exposed to ultraviolet light, a diamond may exhibit a more whitish, yellowish or bluish tint, which may imply that the diamond has a property called fluorescence. The untrained eye can rarely see the effects of fluorescence. Diamond grading reports often state whether a diamond has fluorescent properties. Fluorescence is not considered a grading factor, only a characteristic of that particular diamond, a synonym for fire. |
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| Fire: |
| Refers to the flashing colours seen when a suitably cut diamond is moved, resulting from its dispersion. |
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| Flute: |
| Is a thin paper used to line the inside of a diamond parcel paper. |
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Full-cut brilliant:
Is the correct name for a brilliant-cut diamond with 56 facets plus table and culet.
Four C's:
The term used to describe the four critical things to consider when buying a diamond: cut, color, clarity, and carat.
Fracture:
A crack on a diamond's surface. It is also called a feather.
Fracture Filling:
In diamonds, fracture filling entails a molten glass filling that improves clarity. You can get a lot more stone for your money buying fracture-filled diamonds; the problem is that the treatment isn't always permanent. Get all enhancements clearly stated on your bill of sale.
Full cut:
A gemstone with 58 facets. |
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Gauge:
The thickness of the metal wire that makes up the round ring on a piece of body jewelry. The smaller the gauge, the thicker the wire.
Gemology:
The scientific, historical and legendary study of gem materials, as distinct from all the minerals scientifically studied in mineralogy.
GIA:
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), an industry leader in diamond grading.
Gold (Au):
A yellow-colored precious metal that is very soft when pure (24 Kt.). Gold is the most malleable (hammer able) and ductile (able to be made into wire) metal. Gold is alloyed (mixed with other metals, usually silver and copper) to make it less expensive and harder. The purity of gold jewelry is measured in karats.
Gram:
Unit of weight in the metric system, based on the weight of one cubic centimeter of water. One kilogram, or 1000 grams, = 2.2046 pounds. (31.103 grams = 1 Troy ounce).
Girdle:
Is a sort of rim at the widest part of a diamond by which it is normally set. It is the resulting circumference of the adjoining crown and pavilion angles at the widest part of the stone.
Girdling:
Describes the way a rough diamond is rounded. It is also another name for cutting and bruting.
Grader:
Is the skilled person who separates polished diamonds into sizes and quality grades by clarity, color, and accuracy of cut.
Grain:
Is a name used by cutters and polishers to describe the visible evidence of the crystal structure of a diamond, and will usually determine their procedure.
Guard-Ring:
A thin ring, inconspicuous in appearance, worn on a finger in front of a valuable ring, to prevent the latter slipping off. Guard rings are often worn in pairs, with or without stones, on each side of a wedding ring.
Gypsy Setting:
This setting is predominantly used for men's jewelry. The band is one continuous piece that becomes thicker at the top. The top is dome shaped and the stone is inserted in the middle. |
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Hair:
A type of inclusion in a gem, resembling a hair.
Hardness:
In reference to gems and minerals, the resistance offered to abrasion or scratching. Minerals are measured and numbered on a relative hardness scale, where the intervals between the numbers are very different (e.g. a diamond, the hardest, is far harder than the next mineral down the list).
Head:
The main part of a setting, including the "basket" and prongs, which holds the diamond in place.
Head Shape:
The shape of the setting's head, usually determined by the shape of the stone.
Head Size Range:
The range of sizes of a diamond that can be mounted to a head. It is usually determined by carat weight.
Heart Shape:
A pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top.
Height:
The estimated size of a diamond, measured vertically from the top.
Hook Clasp:
The part of the clasp that physically moves to lock it in place.
Hue:
A descriptor of a diamond's color that indicates whether it is pure or shows the presence of another color.
I1/I2/I3 (Inclusions visible to the unaided eye): These diamonds contain significant inclusions that are visible both under magnification and to the naked eye. Because "I" grades have inclusions that can be seen with the naked eye, we do not recommend that you buy these diamonds for an engagement ring. |
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Ideal Cut:
An ideal cut diamond has the best combination of angles that allow light to enter the diamond and be reflected back, to create the best combination and brilliance and fire. Ideal cuts often create perfectly aligned arrows and heart patterns that can be seen under magnification.
IGL:
The Independent Gemological Laboratories, an industry leader in diamond grading that specializes in grading jewelry set with large diamonds.
Illusion Setting:
This setting is more intricate than others in that it surrounds the stone to make it appear larger. The metal that surrounds the stone is usually faceted or polished white gold to enhance the diamond.
Imperfection: Any flaw, crack, carbon spot, cloud or other blemish of any sort observable in a gemstone, when the latter is examined by a trained eye under a 10-power magnifier.
Inclusions:
Identifying characteristics in a diamond, usually in the form of a blemish, scratch, air bubble or any other foreign material either inside the diamond or on its surface. It is often referred to as "nature's fingerprints." They are what make a diamond so unique, as a fingerprint does for a person. These birthmarks are measured on a scale of perfection known as clarity. Some common names of inclusions include cloud, crystal, pinpoint and feather. The position of inclusions can affect the clarity of a diamond and therefore the value.
Inside Diameter:
On body jewelry, the inside diameter is measured from the inside width of the bead ring and ranges from 7.94 mm (or 5/16") to 19.05 mm (or 3/4").
Internal Stress:
Stress in a diamond or gemstone resulting from inclusions or other structural irregularities, visible through the Polari scope.
Iridium (Ir):
Iridium is a metal related to platinum. Iridium and platinum are frequently alloyed together, as the iridium increases the workability of the platinum.
Irregulars:
A diamond shape classification, crystals of irregular shape with broken parts. |
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Karat:
Indicates the amount of pure gold present in a metal. 18K yellow gold consists of 75% gold and 25% other metals; these are usually copper and silver. 14K yellow gold consists of 58% gold and 42% other metals. |
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Lax Diamond:
A dull, fireless diamond.
Loose Diamond:
Is an un-mounted, polished diamond.
Loupe:
The magnifying tool used to examine gemstones and jewelry. Typically to 10X magnification.
Loupe Clean:
A diamond that shows no flaws under magnification.
Lustre:
Refers to the quality of a surface in reflected light. The lustre of a diamond is usually described as adamantine lustre. |
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Mêlée:
Are rough stones and shapes under two carats and used loosely for small polished diamonds.
Make:
The proportions of a diamond's cut. A certified diamond will have proportions that reflect light well to maximize brilliance.
Malleability:
Property of precious metals of being extended or shaped by beating with a hammer, or by the pressure of rollers.
Mandrel:
A steel rod slightly tapered, used by jewelers as an anvil for forming or sizing rings.
Marquise-Shape:
A thin, elongated diamond with gently curved sides that come to a point on either end. Marquise is part of the brilliant cut family. This shape is used to maximize carat weight in the setting and give it a long, slender appearance.
Master Stones:
A set of diamonds by which jewelers can compare and grade the color of a particular stone from D to Z.
Metal:
Precious metal is a rare metallic chemical element of high economic value that is used for art, jewelry and coinage. Chemically, precious metals are less reactive than most other elements, have high luster, are softer and have higher melting points than other metals. The most popular metals for jewelry are:
Mixed-Cut:
Is the mixing of two different cuts for one diamond, such as a brilliant cut crown and step-cut pavilion.
Mount or Mounting:
Is the part of jewelery into which a stone is set.
Mohs Hardness Scale:
A scale developed by Friedrich Mohs to quantify the hardness of minerals and gemstones. It utilizes a scratch test to rate diamonds on a scale of 1-10 (the higher the number, the harder the mineral will be).
Mold:
A hollow form that gives shape to metal in its molten state.
Mountings:
The method of holding gemstones in place in jewelry. Settings, prongs, channels, etc., are mountings. |
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Natural:
Is part of the natural surface of a rough diamond left on the girdle by the cutter striving for maximum weight retention
Navette:
Is another name for a marquise.
Near-Gem:
Is a quality of rough diamonds between gem and industrial.
NGL:
The Northwest Gemological Laboratories (NGL), an industry leader in diamond grading |
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Octagon:
Word describes the process of adding the eight main facets to the top and bottom of a stone, which makes its table octagon-shaped.
Open Culet:
Is a larger than normal culet.
Open Table:
Is a larger than normal facet.
Open Cast or Open Pit:
Describes mining from the surface.
Oval Shape:
An even and perfectly symmetrical elliptical shape; basically, similar to Round, but elongated.
Oxidation:
The forming of an oxide from base metals such as the copper in sterling silver or a karat gold alloy combining, through heat, with oxygen and forming a coating of copper oxide. Not to be confused with the discoloration of silver by sulphur and its compounds.
Opening a Diamond:
It means polishing a window on a rough stone to see inside it. |
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Pavilion:
Is the bottom part of a polished diamond below the girdle.
Pavé Setting:
Many small gemstones placed in tapered holes creating a "pavéd" appearance. Usually diamonds are set in white gold to create a sparkled finish.
Pipe:
Refers to a roughly funnel-shaped, usually extrusion of volcanic rock that may or may not contain diamonds.
Point:
Is the hundredth of a carat, therefore 0.72 carats equal 72 points.
Polished Girdle:
Refers to a girdle that has been polished but not faceted.
Pear Shape:
A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, the shape is similar to a teardrop or pear.
Pearl:
A smooth, lustrous, variously colored deposit, chiefly calcium carbonate, formed around a grain of sand or other foreign matter in the shells of certain mollusks and valued as a gem.
Penny Weight:
A unit of Troy weight, used for weighing precious metals. The pennyweight contains one-twentieth of an ounce. Abbreviated "dwt."
Per Carat Cost:
Total cost of a gemstone is equal to the carat weight X the per carat cost.
Princess-Cut:
The Princess-cut is a very attractive square or sometimes rectangular cut, and it has some of the sparkle of a Round brilliant cut. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. It may have either 50 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 25 pavilion) or 58 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 33 pavilion), depending on how the pavilion is cut. Princess shapes of high cut quality usually have a table percentages between 60-75% and a total depth percentage between 65-80%.
Prong Metal:
The most popular and traditional setting, often referred to as a "Tiffany" or classic or claw setting. This setting normally has 4 or 6 individual claws of metal that hold a stone in place. You can learn more about settings in our Learning Center.
Prong or claw setting: Consists of four or six prongs that cradle the stone. Because this setting allows the maximum amount of light to enter a stone from all angles, it can sometimes make a diamond appear larger and more brilliant than its actual weight.
Proportion:
The proportions of a diamond are very important, so that the maximum amount of light be reflected off and out of a stone. Proportion is the relationship between the angles of the facets of the crown and the pavilion.
Palladium:
Stronger than white gold, palladium is a pure white metal from the platinum family.
Platinum:
A white metal, and one of the hardest and more popular metals used in engagement rings today. |
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Quadrillion:
A square cut diamond with 96 facets: 49 brilliant style, 21 crown and 24 pavilion. This differs from a Princess, which has either 50 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 25 pavilion) or 58 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 33 pavilion), depending on how the pavilion is cut.
Quality:
Measures the degree of excellence of a diamond by its weight, color, clarity and (polished) its perfection of cut.
Radiant-cut: A 70 facet rectangular or square shaped diamond with step and scissor cuts on the crown, a brilliant cut on the pavilion and emerald cut corners. |
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Refining:
Operations performed to extract metals in pure form from masses containing other metals or impurities.
Refraction:
Refraction is when light enters a medium with a different optical density (like a gemstone), and the light is bent at an angle (and also changes its speed).
Rough Girdle:
A grainy or perforated girdle surface, often with nicks.
Round Shape:
A cut of diamond that is round and contains 57 facets. This is the most popular shape for engagement rings.
Ruthenium (Ru):
A white metallic element of the platinum group, used mainly as a hardener for platinum or palladium. Melting point above 2400º C; specific gravity 12.2. |
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Silver:
The whitest of jewelry metals, harder than gold, softer than copper, more malleable and ductile than any metal except gold.
Satin Finish:
A finish on jewelry given by dulling the polish by scratch brushing, sandblasting or chemical-treatment, producing a surface of metallic color, but with a soft, pearl-like luster instead of bright finish. Good to show off different colors of metals when jewelry uses multiple colors.
Saturation:
The purity of a diamond's color, generally indicating an absence of brown or green hues in the stone.
Scintillation:
Scintillation is the intense sparkling in a diamond as it moves. Black and white sparkles of scintillation show well in flood lit or office lighting environments where fire can be totally absent. Under pin point or spot lights, fire also adds to scintillation. Ideally a diamond has many pleasing flashes spread across the surface of the stone, with few dull dead patches.
Scrap:
A class of jewelry-shop waste, cuttings of precious metals, large enough to sort for re-melting; differentiated from filings, sawdust and other small waste that has to be sweep-smelted and refined to recover it for use.
Semi-Mount:
A mounting that is set with only its small or side stones but has not yet received its center or main stone.
Semi-Precious:
The second and largest of the three categories into which gemstones have been divided by traditional usage. Stones such as topaz, garnet and amethyst are regarded as semi-precious, rather than precious, for relative softness, inferior brilliance, comparative abundance, unfamiliarity or fashion.
Setting:
The setting holds the stone in place. The combination of a shank and head make up a ring. Some popular settings are the Prong, Peg, Chanel, Bezel, and Pavé.
Setting Metal:
Same as prong metal. The most popular and traditional setting, often referred to as a "Tiffany" or classic or claw setting. This setting normally has 4 or 6 individual claws of metal that hold a stone in place. You can learn more about settings in our Learning Center.
Shallow Cut:
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished diamond. When a diamond is cut too shallow, it will lose or leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance and value.
Shank:
The part of a ring that fits around the finger. The combination of a shank and head (or setting) makes up a ring.
Shape:
Refers to form or appearance of a diamond. Whether the diamond is round, triangular, square, marquise, pear, oval or heart shaped.
SI 1/SI 2 (Slightly Included):
These two grades of slightly included diamonds contain inclusions that are evident under 10x magnification and may be seen by the naked eye in some cases (generally in SI2 diamonds). If your goal is maximizing size and/or affordability, look at S1 and S2 diamonds. Many of these stones are what professionals call "eye-clean," meaning they have no visible inclusions.
Side Stone:
A stone set as part of a group encircling a center stone.
Silver (Ag):
A metallic element, used in jewelry, coinage, dentistry, photography, etc. It is the whitest of metals, harder than gold, softer than copper, more malleable and ductile than any metal except gold, and probably the best conductor of heat and electricity.
Single Cut:
A simple cut of 17 - 18 facets, given to small diamonds.
Soldering:
Uniting pieces of metal by melting between them another kind of metal.
Solitaire:
A single-diamond engagement ring.
Sawyer:
Is the skilled person who saw diamonds.
Sawable:
Are the rough diamonds that can be divided by sawing.
Scaife:
Is also spelled scaive or scaif, and refers to the horizontal turntable or grinding table on which a diamond is polished.
Scintillation:
Refers to the flashing and twinkling sparkle of a diamond when it moved under light. A diamond is always more beautiful in motion because its scintillation depends upon the number of facets visible to the eye when the diamond moves.
Set:
Is a diamond or other stone set in a mount.
Skin:
Is the natural surface of the unpolished diamond.
Sorter:
Is the skilled person who separates rough diamonds into sizes and grades of quality by shape, color, and clarity.
Star Facets:
Are the eight triangular facets around the table of a diamond that make it star-shaped.
Symmetry:
Symmetry refers to the angles at which the "facets" (the stone's smooth, angled surfaces) align. Proper symmetry reflects light from one surface to another repeatedly throughout the diamond (allowing as little light as possible to escape). Excellent symmetry of a well cut and well-proportioned diamond can have a great effect on the diamond's brilliance and fire. Grading reports will often state the diamond's symmetry in terms Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor. |
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Table:
Is the large facet on the top of the diamond's crown.
Treated:
Describes a polished diamond that has been altered to change its appearance, eg by artificial coloration, that is, irradiation.
Tension Setting:
A tension set diamond is held in place by the pressure of the shank's metal, which is designed to "squeeze" the stone.
Tone:
A scale designed to measure color intensity in a diamond. Values range from "light" to "dark."
Total weight/Carat Total Weight:
The total diamond carat weight of all the stones in a piece of jewelry.
Trillion Shape:
A triangular shaped diamond with 50 facets. Trillions are commonly used as side stones.
Troy Ounce:
A unit of Troy weight, long used for weighing precious metals. The ounce contains 20 pennyweights each of 24 grains.
Twinning Wisp:
An irregularity in a diamond's crystal structure that appears as a line inside the stone. Minor wisps are not visible to the naked eye and do not affect the clarity of the stone or compromise its integrity. |
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Ultrasonic Cleaner:
A cleansing agent dissolved in a solution and vibrated at frequencies higher than those audible to the human ear. At such vibrations, foreign matter and dirt are dislodged while the jewelry is being cleaned. |
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V-End:
A prong setting designed to protect the fragile points of a diamond. The v-end shaped prong wraps around the point of fancy diamond shapes such as princess, emerald, marquise and pear.
Very Good Cut:
These diamonds reflect much of the light that enters the stone. They usually trade in some of their brilliance for added size.
Vickers Hardness Test:
A test for metals in which a diamond pyramid is pressed into the metal by a load of 5-120 kilograms.
VS 1/VS 2 (Very Slightly Included):
These two grades of Very Slightly Included Diamonds have minute inclusions that are not visible to the naked eye and are difficult to see under magnification. 10 X magnifications is required to clearly see an inclusion. VS clarity diamonds are a good choice for someone wishing to balance high quality with relative affordability.
VVS 1/VVS 2 (Very, Very Slightly included):
These two grades of VVS Diamonds have minute inclusions that are extremely difficult to detect even with 10x magnification. These diamonds are excellent choices as their inclusions are minor and invisible to the eye. These diamonds offer cost savings without sacrificing too much in terms of clarity. |
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Wax Injector:
A device for forcing molten wax into a rubber or metal mold in order to make a wax pattern. Pressure for the wax injection is supplied by compressed air or hydraulic pressure.
White Diamond:
A diamond color grade approximately equivalent to GIA grades F, G, H, and AGS grades 1 and 2.
Window:
Is the facet polished on a rough diamond in order to see inside it. |
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Yellow Diamond:
A color-grading term measured by grade Z on the GIA scale or grade 10 on the AGS scale. Stones that are deeper than Z or 10 are designated fancy yellow.
Yellow Gold:
The most popular gold alloy. An alloy of gold, silver, copper and sometimes zinc. |
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