- Introduction
- History of Asscher Cut Diamonds
- Understanding the Asscher Cut
- Pros and Cons of Asscher Cut Diamonds
- The 4Cs of Asscher Cut Diamonds
- Asscher Cut vs Other Diamond Shapes
- Price and Value of Asscher Cut Diamonds
- Asscher Cut Diamonds Care and Maintenance
- Asscher Cut Diamonds in Pop Culture
- Final Thoughts
Introduction
The Asscher cut diamond is a timeless symbol of vintage sophistication. Known for its geometric precision and mesmerizing depth, this square-shaped diamond combines old-world charm with modern refinement. Its distinct step-cut facets and high crown create a hall-of-mirrors effect, making it one of the most captivating diamond cuts in fine jewelry.
Though not as common as round or princess cuts, the Asscher cut stands out for its bold structure and art-deco appeal. Perfect for those who love symmetry, elegance, and a touch of vintage glamour, this diamond cut continues to make a striking statement in engagement rings and luxury jewelry.
In this guide, you’ll discover:
- The history and evolution of the Asscher cut diamond,
- Its defining features and unique structure,
- Pros and cons of choosing one,
- How the 4Cs affect its beauty and price,
- Popular setting ideas, and
- Tips to find the perfect Asscher cut diamond.
History of Asscher Cut Diamonds
The Origins
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, founder of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. Inspired by the emerald cut, the design emphasized clarity and depth rather than sparkle. Its square shape and deeply layered facets reflected light in a subtle yet dramatic way, setting it apart from the brilliant cuts popular at the time.
The Art Deco Era
The Asscher cut gained fame in the 1920s and 1930s, when geometric lines and symmetry dominated art and architecture. Its angular form fit perfectly into the Art Deco movement, becoming a symbol of luxury and refinement.
The Modern Revival
In 1999, the Royal Asscher family introduced the Royal Asscher Cut, an enhanced version with 74 facets instead of 58. This update improved brilliance and made the cut even more precise, blending vintage allure with modern light performance.
Today, Asscher cut diamonds are prized for their clarity, craftsmanship, and architectural beauty.
Understanding the Asscher Cut
An Asscher cut diamond is square with cropped corners, resembling an octagon when viewed from above. Its step-cut design uses parallel facets that draw your eyes toward the center, creating a deep, mirrored effect known as the “hall of mirrors.
Key Characteristics
- Shape: Square with beveled corners
- Facets: 58 (classic) or 74 (Royal Asscher)
- Table Size: Typically smaller to emphasize depth
- Crown Height: Higher than most cuts, adding brilliance
- Symmetry: Crucial for maximizing visual depth
The result is a diamond that glows with elegance rather than sparkle — understated yet incredibly captivating.
Pros and Cons of Asscher Cut Diamonds
Pros
- Elegant and Vintage Look: A favorite for art deco lovers.
- Unique Light Reflection: The step-cut facets produce a dramatic hall-of-mirrors effect.
- Durable Corners: Cropped edges reduce the risk of chipping.
- Excellent Clarity Display: The open facets showcase the diamond’s interior beauty.
- Timeless Appeal: Perfect balance between modern geometry and vintage glamour.
Cons
- Less Sparkle: Doesn’t have the fiery brilliance of round or cushion cuts.
- Shows Inclusions Easily: Requires high clarity for best appearance.
- Appears Smaller: Its depth can make it look smaller than other cuts of the same carat.
The 4Cs of Asscher Cut Diamonds
1. Cut
Cut is crucial for Asscher diamonds. Precision symmetry ensures perfect light reflection.
- Excellent/Ideal Cut: Crisp reflections and balanced proportions.
- Very Good Cut: Good depth and symmetry with minimal light leakage.
👉 Look for depth between 60–68% and table between 55–65% for optimal brilliance.
2. Color
Step cuts don’t hide color well, so higher color grades appear cleaner.
- D–F: Colorless, ideal for platinum or white gold.
- G–H: Near-colorless, a great value with minimal warmth.
- I–J: Slight warmth, suits yellow or rose gold settings.
👉 For Asscher cuts, stay within G or better for a crisp, white look.
3. Clarity
Because of its transparent structure, inclusions are more visible.
- VS1–VVS2: Ideal clarity range.
- SI1: Acceptable if inclusions are near the corners or pavilion.
👉 Prioritize clarity over carat in Asscher cuts for the cleanest, glass-like effect.
4. Carat Weight
Asscher cuts carry most of their weight in depth, so they appear smaller than round or oval cuts of equal carat weight.
- A 1.00ct Asscher measures about 5.5mm, compared to 6.5mm for a round diamond.
👉 Consider slightly larger carat weights or halo settings to enhance its presence.
Popular Setting Styles for Asscher Cut Diamonds
Asscher cut diamonds exude timeless sophistication and look stunning in a variety of settings. Solitaire rings highlight their clean lines and mesmerizing step-cut facets with elegant simplicity. Halo rings add extra sparkle, enhancing the Asscher’s brilliance and square symmetry. Vintage setting rings capture old-world charm with intricate details that complement the diamond’s art deco heritage. Three-stone rings symbolize love’s past, present, and future while emphasizing the Asscher’s depth and geometry.Bezel rings offer a sleek, modern look with added protection, perfectly framing the diamond’s structured beauty.
Popular Asscher Cut Diamond Metal Choices
Asscher cut diamonds pair beautifully with a range of metal choices that enhance their refined elegance and vintage appeal. White gold engagement rings offers a modern, luminous finish that complements the diamond’s crisp, geometric lines. Yellow gold engagement rings brings a rich, classic warmth that enhances the Asscher’s timeless charm. Rose gold engagement rings adds a romantic, vintage-inspired glow that softens the cut’s bold symmetry. For ultimate durability and sophistication, platinum engagement rings provides a luxurious, enduring setting that highlights the Asscher’s striking clarity and depth.
Popular Asscher Diamond Band Styles
Asscher cut diamonds pair beautifully with different band styles. Thin bands highlight their symmetry with delicate elegance, while thicker bands add bold balance. Diamond wedding bands enhance sparkle, and classic wedding bands offer timeless sophistication.
Asscher Cut vs Other Diamond Shapes
| Feature | Asscher Cut | Emerald Cut | Princess Cut | Round Cut |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shape | Square | Rectangular | Square | Round |
| Facet Type | Step-cut | Step-cut | Brilliant-cut | Brilliant-cut |
| Sparkle | Subtle, deep flashes | Long flashes | Bright sparkle | Maximum brilliance |
| Style | Vintage, geometric | Elegant,elongated | Modern | Classic |
| Size Appearance | Smaller | Larger | Medium | Larger |
👉 Choose Asscher if you love symmetry, depth, and vintage artistry over intense sparkle.
Price and Value of Asscher Cut Diamonds
Asscher cut diamonds are generally 10–20% less expensive than round cuts because of lower demand and better rough utilization. Prices vary based on cut precision and clarity.
Buying Tips:
- Focus on cut and clarity over carat.
- Choose G–H color and VS2 clarity for the best balance of beauty and value
- Opt for a halo or vintage setting to enhance size perception.
Asscher Cut Diamonds Care and Maintenance
- Clean gently with warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush.
- Avoid harsh chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.
- Check prongs regularly, especially for step-cut settings.
- Store separately to prevent scratches.
Asscher Cut Diamonds in Pop Culture
The Asscher cut has adorned many iconic engagement rings, including Elizabeth Taylor’s famous Asscher diamond, and has been worn by celebrities like Pippa Middleton and Jessica Alba. Its association with vintage Hollywood glamour keeps it forever stylish and sought after.
Final Thoughts
The Asscher cut diamond is more than a gemstone—it’s a statement of taste, precision, and timeless artistry. Its layered facets and deep clarity appeal to those who value sophistication over sparkle. Whether set in a sleek modern band or an ornate vintage ring, the Asscher cut carries an undeniable sense of depth and legacy.
Choosing an Asscher cut means embracing a diamond that’s both architectural and eternal — a true reflection of enduring love and individuality.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What makes an Asscher cut diamond unique?
The Asscher cut stands out for its square shape, cropped corners, and mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect. Its step-cut facets and deep crown emphasize clarity and depth rather than sparkle, giving it a distinct vintage and architectural appeal.
2. Is an Asscher cut diamond the same as an emerald cut?
No. While both are step-cut designs, the Asscher cut is square with cropped corners, whereas the emerald cut is rectangular. The Asscher also has higher crowns and deeper facets, which create more depth and reflection.
3. Do Asscher cut diamonds sparkle as much as round or princess cuts?
Not quite. The Asscher cut produces a subtle, elegant glow rather than intense sparkle. Its beauty lies in the dramatic flashes of light and geometric symmetry rather than fiery brilliance.
4. What clarity grade is best for an Asscher cut diamond?
Because the Asscher cut’s open facets reveal inclusions easily, aim for VS1 or higher clarity. If you’re on a budget, a clean SI1 with inclusions near the edges can still look stunning.
5. What color grade should I choose for an Asscher cut diamond?
For a crisp, white look, opt for G color or better. Step cuts tend to reveal more color than brilliant cuts, so higher color grades (D–F) are ideal for white metals like platinum or white gold.
6. Do Asscher cut diamonds look smaller than other shapes?
Yes. Because of their depth, Asscher cuts often appear smaller than round or oval diamonds of the same carat weight. Choosing a slightly larger carat or adding a halo setting helps enhance its presence.
7. What are the most popular settings for Asscher cut diamonds?
Top choices include solitaire, halo, three-stone, vintage, and bezel settings. Each highlights the cut’s symmetry — with halo and vintage styles being especially popular for adding size and sparkle.
8. How can I tell if an Asscher cut diamond is well-cut?
A high-quality Asscher cut has excellent symmetry, sharp facet alignment, and balanced depth (around 60–68%) with a table between 55–65%. The reflections should appear even and mirror-like from all angles.
9. Are Asscher cut diamonds expensive?
They’re generally 10–20% less expensive than round diamonds of similar quality because of lower demand and efficient cutting from rough stones. However, prices can rise significantly for top-tier clarity and symmetry.
10. What metal looks best with an Asscher cut diamond?
Platinum or white gold enhances its crisp, mirror-like reflections. For a warmer, vintage aesthetic, rose gold or yellow gold can beautifully contrast the cut’s cool geometry.
11. How should I clean and care for an Asscher cut diamond ring?
Clean gently with warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush. Avoid harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, and check your prongs regularly to ensure the diamond stays secure.
12. Why choose an Asscher cut diamond for an engagement ring?
An Asscher cut diamond exudes timeless sophistication, vintage allure, and architectural precision. It’s ideal for those who appreciate refined elegance, symmetry, and a touch of old-world glamour over intense sparkle.